First blood.Once again I made sure how much Asian and European cultures differ. We were invited to a big and hilarious feast of a little twelve-year old girl, who became a maiden. And immediately there came to my mind the sounds of unmortal hit from Quentin Tarantino’s “Pulp Fiction” - "Girl, you'll be a woman, soon".
The GOOD THINGS shop appeared to be a small fancy fair pigeon-hole. Spare parts for gas-stoves and electric guitars, violins and cricket bats, house-ware and stereo systems. And plenty of different electronic stuff from Sony to Chinese Sanyx. And all this on 40 square meters. Asking Priyatna what to present and how to understand what is a GOOD THING like was for nothing, he kept silence, like Malchish-Kibalchish* before bourjouins*. “Here!” announced Priyatna to us and pointed with a finger to one of the shadow boxes. Well, it was quite expected - a dinner set of 37 pieces. “Money will be spent, and this will serve long and most likely will become a part of her dowry”, added Priyatna. We fully agreed, though, of course, imagined for a moment visiting a family of our friends in their private residence, somewhere in Moscow region, on the occasion of 12-year anniversary of their daughter and take as a present not an iPod, a PSP or a bag from Gucci, but a dinner set for 6 persons. I think you will remember for long the eyes of the b-day girl after she opens the present box. And here comes the X hour, 8 o’clock in the evening, Tuesday, we are 5 people, on the way we shall pick up Priyatna, and the driver. Altogether the delegation of 7 people. Already driving we clear up that nobody knows really where to go. But this is not a problem, we found the village and there everybody knows everything. 5 minutes of driving in circles and we saw the place. To be more precise, almost saw it. Because by the narrow path across the rice field the van can not go and we have to walk. Jamming! Eight thirty in the evening, as dark as pitch, mobile phone screen instead of a flash-light. Just add to all this stuff the rainfall season, which makes everything around in puddles and mud, and walking along the clay path in such conditions looks like one of the TV show’s Great Race contests. And we are pretty cultural people, I am in white trousers, Alyonka – in white leather sandals, and our friends also do not look like rice men. First one Laki is going (the tuk driver), holding on his head the case with the dinner set, then – me, with a sinking heart looking at the case on his head and praying that he for God’s sake does not slip and break to pieces our GOOD THING. Then Alyonka, Olga, Natasha, Wilhelm and Priyatna. “I had suggested”, spitefully says Alyonka, “to take some arracka, we would have drunk it on the way and it would have been easier!” But after a couple of minutes of sliding on mud our mood goes up by itself without any arracka.
We were expected as a wedding general in the village. Immediately Kasun steps out of the crowd and after greeting us with a wide and cheerful smile he takes us to get acquainted with his sister. A small, fragile and charming girl in a dressy dress of peach color, with a purse on her arm. She looks like 9, not older. “Welcome”, said the “child”. And the box traveled to the hands of some relative. “If we could only wash our feet” I asked, pointing to the feet, looking more like potter’s feet after clay battering for monumental statues in the manner of Tsaritelli. By the side way Kasun shows us to the tap. Our way went among the huge bowls of rice, mixed with a piece of plank by some Lankan. And among the pots, most likely with curry. We went back through the house and were just showered with smiles and greetings of the kin and friends. During our washing on the most comfortable place, under the roof, there appeared a table and 8 chairs - V.I.P., no doubts. While we were sitting down, there appeared plates with salads and snacks, beautiful glasses and forks. “And now is high time for arracka”, I thought and went to the bar. By my request to fill a couple of arracka glasses, the barman handled me a full bottle of arracka and a bottle of soda water. “Well, not bad for the start!” When I came bacl to the table there was already one more bottle of Arracka carefully brought by Kasun. “Vipyem!”, I heard in broken Russian and looking up I saw a Singhalese stretching his glass to take arrack with me. “Let’s drink!” I repeated after him. Several familiar Lankans from Unawatuna came up and dissolved our company. “We need to dance”, announced Olya and Natasha and mixed in the thick of the crowd. “There is no need to describe how cheerfully that was met by the people around. At once they were surrounded by the crowd of youngsters. “They are very happy that you started dancing”, Nissa whispered me (a familiar waiter from Unawatuna). “Girls felt uneasy to start dancing the first and they hid in the corners, but now when your girls started dancing they can join”. And really, the number of dancing girls increased greatly. As you remember, local people do not dance together, and here it was not an exception. All the girls were dancing on the terrace and watchful kin preserved them to be joined by local boys. Wilhelm, being industrious enough to take his camera, was practically torn into pieces by the crowd of Lankans dreaming to be photographed.
Lyric music began, “Shall we dance?” offered Alyonka. “Sure!” We went dancing and immediately got into the circle of guards. From one side Kasun was standing and driving away the boy trying to get closer to us, from another side – Nissa (by the way he is a bodybuilder, almost square-shaped). I’ll tell the word, that we have not ever danced like that. As if there was no crowd around, we were dancing widely and easily. Brilliant! “Enough is enough” the folk’s wisdom says. So we went home, to stay longer could become dangerous as we were going to walk back along the rice field. Careful Kasun led us to the van and despite of our refusals, by the old Russian tradition, he handled us a bottle of arrack and soda water for the road. Should I say that all our company was fully excited about the occasion. And yesterday Laki (the driver) came to us with the whole family and invited us all to the birthday of his 14-year old daughter. That’s the mess we are in. And just now, while I was writing these lines sitting in the office, Kasun came and brought small gifts. A sachet to everyone with national Sra-Lankan candies. Just to show his care.
07.10.2009
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